Moriarty: two colour stripey crochet beanie

Toddler sized beanie made in Debbie Bliss Pure Cotton, colours 21 and 26

Toddler sized beanie made in Rowan Cashsoft colours 12 (blue) and 24 (pink)

Men’s size beanie made in Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran – can’t remember the colours!

Moriarty is a two coloured beanie, crocheted in a spiral, which means it doesn’t have a seam, but it does have a slight jag at the end of the hat, though if you do the version with the flower, this won’t show. If you don’t want a jag, then join each round using a slip stitch rather than crochet in a spiral.

 

Sizes

These are the sizes I use for my hats:

	1	2	3	4
Size guide	Toddler	Child	Woman	Man
Circumference	45 cm(18 inches)	50 cm(20 inches)	55 cm(22 inches)	60 cm(24 inches)
Approximate length*	15 cm(6 inches)	17.5 cm(6.5 inches)	19.5 cm(7.5 inches)	21.5 cm(8.5 inches)

*if you want a longer or shorter hat, just add or subtract rows accordingly.

 

Materials

I made these with Debbie Bliss Pure Cotton, Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran and, Rowan Cashsoft Aran, so any Aran weight yarn should work.  For the children’s sizes you’ll need about  half a ball/ 45 metres of each colour, while the adult sizes use about a ball or 90m of each colour (sorry these are such rough estimates – I didn’t write down the exact amount of yarn I used when I made all these hats).

 

Stitches used

• dc – double crochet (American single crochet)
• tc – treble crochet (American double crochet)

 

Gauge

12 stitches and 18 rows to 10 cm or 4 inches measured over double crochet using a 5 mm hook, though it’s more important to get the correct number of stitches than the correct number of rows as it’s so easy to change the length of the hat if needed.

 

Method

This hat is worked in a spiral.  At the end of each round, pull the yarn through the last stitch so you have a big loop, as that will prevent you accidentally unravelling the stitches while you work on the next round.

Shaping the crown

To start: with your main colour, make an adjustable ring by making a loop with your yarn with the tail end of the yarn in front of the working yarn, insert your hook into the loop and draw the working yarn through, then chain 1.  I’d show you how to do this myself, but I accidentally ripped off my thumbnail yesterday and my hands are in no fit state to appear in photographs, but there is a good tutorial with pictures here.

Round 1: dc six times into the adjustable ring, then pull the yarn through so you have a big loop and remove the hook – remember to do this on every round so that you don’t accidentally unravel your stitches.

Pic 1: end of round 1

Round 2: Join contrasting yarn into the adjustable ring, pull the ring closed, then dc twice into each of the stitches in the previous round.  (12 stitches)

Pic 2: joining contrasting yarn

Pic 3: end of round 2

Round 3: 1 dc into each stitch of previous round.  (12 stitches)

Pic 4: end of round 3

Round 4: 2 dc into each stitch of previous round.  (24 stitches)

Pic 5: end of round 4

Round 5: 1 dc into each stitch of previous round.  (24 stitches)

Round 6: 2dc into first stitch, then 1 dc into next stitch.  Repeat until end.  (36 stitches)

Round 7: 1 dc into each stitch of previous round.  (36 stitches)

Round 8: 2dc into first stitch, then 1 dc into next two stitches.  Repeat until end.  (48 stitches)

Round 9: 1 dc into each stitch of previous round.  (48 stitches)

Round 10: Toddler size only – 2 dc into first stitch, then 1 dc into next 7 stitches. Repeat until end.  (54 stitches)

Round 10: All other sizes – 2 dc into first stitch, then 1 dc into next three stitches.  Repeat until end. (60 stitches)

That’s the end of the crown shaping for the children’s sizes.  For the adult sizes, continue as follows:

Round 11: 1 dc into each stitch of previous round.  (60 stitches)

Round 12:  Women’s size only – 2 dc into first stitch, then 1 dc into next 9 stitches.  Repeat until end.  (66 stitches)

Round 12: Men’s size only – 2 dc into first stitch, then 1 dc into next four stitches.  Repeat until end.  (72 stitches)

Body of hat

For the body of the hat continue crocheting without increasing for the number of rounds shown below.   On the final round, which should be in the contrasting colour. dc up to the last but one stitch, then slip stitch into the last stitch, and cut yarn leaving a loose end to weave in.

Toddler size: 12 rounds (to make a total of 22 rounds so far)

Child size:  16 rounds (to make a total of 26 rounds so far)

Women’s size:  16 rounds (to make a total of 28 rounds so far)

Men’s size:  20 rounds (to make a total of 32 rounds so far)

Then, with the main colour, dc into each stitch for five more rounds for the children’s sizes and seven more rounds for the adult sizes, cast off, and weave in ends.  You should have a total of 27 rounds for the toddler size, 31 rounds for the children’s size, 35 rounds for the women’s size and 39 rounds for the men’s size.

Flowers

Make an adjustable ring as before

Round 1:  9 dc into ring, and join round with a slip stitch

Round 2:  chain 1 (counts as first dc) then do 3 treble crochet into first stitch, and slip stitch into next.  *Into next stitch do 1 double crochet and 3 trebles, then slip stitch into next stitch.  Repeat from * to end. Weave in ends, and sew onto hat.

Taking the fun out of crafting

You know, I’m really pleased with the slippers I designed. I spent hours looking for patterns for crocheted Mary-Jane slippers, and I couldn’t find any in the style I wanted, or even any close enough that I could modify a pattern to make my own. So, I sat down with a tape measure, pencil and paper, made a few sketches, drew the design of the slipper I wanted on my foot with marker pen, measured all the dimensions, researched international shoe sizes on the internet, and set about designing a pattern of my own. And it took ages – the swatching, the calculations, the planning on graph paper, the crocheting, taking notes, frogging, re-crocheting, taking more notes, frogging again… and again… but I ended up with a pair of slippers that I was really pleased with, and that were exactly as I’d envisaged they would be.

When they were done, and I had transcribed all my notes and doodles, I was happy to publish the pattern here, free of charge, for other people to use, because I have found so much inspiration on the internet from other crafters, and wanted to give something back.  And it’s been lovely to see people adding the pattern to their Ravelry queues, posting pictures of the slippers they’ve made, and reading all of the lovely comments and emails I’ve received about them.

But now, I am sitting here wishing I had just kept my pattern to myself. Why? Because someone is selling slippers on etsy that are exactly the same as my design. I studied all of her photos and her slippers are identical in every detail to mine, down to the number of stitches, the number of rows, the design and the construction. So I contacted the seller via etsy asking if she had used my pattern to make them, and saying if she had then please note that she is not permitted to sell items made using my pattern. She denied using my pattern; she said, “I didn’t use your pattern… I just google imaged slippers and improvised. I apologize if you find them similar.” and offered to send me the pattern she had made.

If, as she said, she didn’t use my pattern but instead improvised a design based on google images, then either it’s a pretty big coincidence that she came up with the exact same design as me, or she must have copied my design from my images.

I wish I could be more philosophical about this, and just shrug it off, but right now I just feel really sad, and bloody cross. I’ve been googling “etsy and copyright violations” for hours today to try to decide what to do, and came across some thoughtful posts from people on the same issue, such as this one from Melissa at tiny happy, this one from chile con yarne, and this one from Flint Knits.

I haven’t yet decided what I will do – the similarity between her slippers and mine is so big that I don’t believe it’s a coincidence. (She is also selling some other items that look as if they are made from other free patterns on the internet, such as the lovely Durango hat by Catherine Lindsay.)  But can I prove that she violated my copyright? I don’t know. Can I be bothered? Again, I don’t know.  But what I do know is that I am going to think twice about posting anything I design on this website in future, because I really don’t want to feel the way I’ve been feeling today ever again.

Free pattern for crocheted Mary-Jane slippers

Fancy making some slippers?  Here’s the pattern I devised for the Mary-Jane slippers I made for my friend.  Each slipper is made in one piece, so there are no seams, and they are made in double crochet (single crochet if you’re American).

Please note: this free pattern is not for resale. All rights reserved. No part of the pattern may be reproduced in any form. The written instructions, photographs, design, and pattern are intended for personal, non-commercial use only i.e. you are not permitted to sell any items made using this pattern.

I have checked and re-checked the pattern, but if you use it and find any mistakes, or if anything is unclear, please do not hesitate to email me at thelittlehousebythesea at hotmail dot com.  Oh, and if you make these, please add a pic of them to the Flickr group.

Materials

• Debbie Bliss Pure Cotton or any other Aran weight yarn – 50g/ 82m of main colour and a few metres (about 8.5 m) in contrasting colour
• Hook size 5 mm
• Four pieces of contrasting yarn to use as markers
• 2 buttons – the ones I used have a diameter of 1.5 cm.
• Large blunt ended needle

Stitches used

• ch – chain
• dc – double crochet (single crochet if you’re American)
• dc2tog – double crochet two stitches together (decrease)

Gauge

12 stitches and 18 rows to 10 cm or 4 inches measured over double crochet using a 5 mm hook.

Sizing

At the gauge stated above, the slippers will fit UK size 4 – 6.5 (EU size 37 – 39.5, US size 6.5 – 9).  They might fit a UK size 7 (EU 40, US 9.5) but I haven’t been able to get someone with this size feet to try them on to check.

It doesn’t matter too much if your gauge is not exact because the slippers are designed to stretch to fit, but you don’t want your gauge to be too different as then your slippers might not fit.  If your feet at are at the smaller end of the range and you are getting a couple more than 12 stitches to 10cm/ 4 inches, then the slippers will probably still fit, especially if you are using wool rather than cotton.  If not, try a larger hook size.  If your feet are at the larger end of the range and you are getting fewer stitches to 10 cm/ 4 inches, then, again, the slippers will probably still fit, but if not, try a smaller hook size.

METHOD

Toe-cap

The toe-cap is worked in one continuous round, or spiral as follows:

Foundation chain: using 5 mm hook, chain 6.

Round 1: dc into second chain from hook, dc into next 3 chains, 3 dc into last chain, then continue double-crocheting up the other side of chain as follows: dc into next three chains, 2dc in last chain (12 stitches).

Picture 1: the first round

Round 2: dc into each of next 5 stitches, 3 dc into next stitch, dc into each of next 5 stitches, 3 dc into next stitch (16 stitches)

Round 3: dc into each of next 6 stitches, 3 dc into next stitch, dc into each of next 7 stitches, 3 dc into next stitch, dc into next stitch (20 stitches)

Round 4: dc into each of next 7 stitches, 3 dc into next stitch, dc into each of next 9 stitches, 3 dc into next stitch, dc into next 2 stitches (24 stitches)

Round 5: dc into each stitch (24 stitches)

Round 6: dc into each stitch (24 stitches)

Sole

The sole continues on from the toe-cap, and is worked in rows as follows:

Row 1: dc into first 8 stitches of round 6.  Mark first and last stitch in the row, and also the two stitches of the toe-cap on either side of the row, as shown in picture 2.  1 chain. Turn. (8 stitches)

Picture 2: stitches marked with contrasting yarn

Row 2: dc into each stitch. 1 chain. Turn. (8 stitches)

Rows 3 – 13: as row 2.

Row 14: 2 dc into first stitch, dc into next 6 stitches, 2 dc into last stitch. (10 stitches). 1 chain.  Turn.

Row 15: dc into each stitch. 1 chain.  Turn.  (10 stitches)

Rows 16 – 19: as row 15.

Row 20: 2 dc into first stitch, dc into next 8 stitches, 2 dc into last stitch.  1 chain. Turn. (12 stitches)

Row 21: dc into each stitch.  1 chain. Turn. (12 stitches).

Rows 22-23: as row 21.

Row 24: dc into first 2 stitches, dc2tog, dc into next 4 stitches, dc2tog, dc into last 2 stitches. 1 chain.  Turn. (10 stitches)

Row 25: dc into first 2 stitches, dc2tog, dc into next 2 stitches, dc2tog, dc into last 2 stitches. 1 chain.  Turn. (8 stitches)

Row 26: dc into first 2 stitches, dc2tog. dc2tog, dc into last 2 stitches. 1 chain.  Turn.  (6 stitches)

Row 27: dc into first stitch. dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into last stitch. (4 stitches).  DO NOT TURN.  With contrasting thread mark first and last stitches in rows 26 and 27.

Picture 3: toe-cap and sole, showing marked stitches

Upper

You will now work the rest of the slipper in rounds.

Round 1: with bottom of sole facing you, dc into each row end (26 stitches) dc into each stitch on toe-cap (17 stitches) dc up the row ends on the other side (26 stitches) and dc into the 4 stitches on the back. (73 stitches).  Move the markers as you crochet so that the ends of the each side, toe-cap and back are marked.

Round 2: repeat round 1

In rounds 3 – 6 you will decrease at both ends of each side, and at each side of the toe-cap by double-crocheting together the first two and last two stitches of both sides and the toe-cap as follows:

Round 3: dc2tog, dc into next 22 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 13 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 22 stitches, dc2 tog, dc into last 4 stitches (67 stitches)

Round 4: dc2tog, dc into next 20 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 11 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 20 stitches, dc2 tog, dc into last 4 stitches (61 stitches)

Round 5: dc2tog, dc into next 18 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 9 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 18 stitches, dc2 tog, dc into last 4 stitches (55 stitches)

Round 6: dc2tog, dc into next 16 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 7 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 16 stitches, dc2tog, dc into last 3 stitches, and slip stitch into last stitch. Cut yarn leaving a loose end to weave in. (49 stitches)

The final two rounds are worked in a contrasting yarn. First of all you make a chain and button hole for the strap, and then you join the yarn to the slippers and continue shaping the upper as follows:

Strap: With colour for trim, chain 5. Slip stitch into chain furthest from hook to form a loop (this will be the buttonhole: if your buttons have a diameter greater than 1.5 cm, then you may need to increase the size of this loop).  Then chain 16.

Picture 4: strap

 

Left slipper

Round 7: Join chain to left slipper on the right side in the 8^th stitch from the front right corner (see picture 5 ). You will then continue crocheting around the upper, decreasing at the corners and heel as in rounds 3 – 6 as follows: dc into next 7 stitches, dc2tog, dc into 4 stitches along back of slipper, dc2tog, dc into next 14 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 5 stitches (across toe-cap) dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 7 stitches (the last dc goes into the same stitch that you joined the chain to the slipper).  Then dc up one side of the chain you made (16 stitches), dc into each chain in the loop (5 stitches), and dc back down the other side of the chain (16 stitches).

Picture 5: joining the strap to the left slipper

Picture 6:round 7, just before crocheting up the strap

Right slipper

Round 7: Join chain to right slipper on the left side in the 8^th stitch from the front left corner. You will then continue crocheting around the upper, decreasing at the corners and heel as in rounds 3 – 6 as follows: dc into next 6 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next five stitches (across toe-cap), dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 14 stitches, dc2tog, dc into 4 stitches, dc2tog, dc into next 8 stitches (the last dc goes into the same stitch that you joined the chain to the slipper).  Then dc up one side of the chain you made (16 stitches), dc into each chain in the loop (5 stitches), and dc back down the other side of the chain (16 stitches).

Both slippers

Round 8: dc into each dc along top of slipper until you come back to the strap, then cast off.

To finish: Weave in ends, and sew on buttons.

Fifty summer crafts for kids

Oooh, look at this. The long thread has put together a list of 50 summer crafts for kids. What fabulous timing, too, as this time next week I shall be back in the UK and will have littlies on tap to play with.

Top 100 tutorials of 2008

This is something I meant to post ages ago, but I forgot because my darling sister, brother-in-law, niece and nephew came to visit us for five wonderful, fun-filled, love-packed weeks, and when they left I slumped into a pit of despair because I missed them so much that I thought my heart would surely break. But this week I gave myself a good talking to and managed to start dragging myself out of that pit. The pain of not being with them is still there, but I need to stop feeling sorry for myself, and start counting my blessings again.

Anyway, I digress. The actual point of this post is this: The Long Thread put together a list of her Top 100 Tutorials of of 2008. It’s a brilliant list: there’s so much inspiration there, and it’s all handily referenced into different categories.  And, AND, my Mushroom House and Toadstool Cottage tutorial made the list! I can’t tell you how chuffed I feel to have something I made featured in a list that includes tutorials from proper craft bloggers. Anyway, check it out – it’s great!

Toadstool Cottage and Mushroom House: free pattern and tutorial

Toadstool Cottage (left) and Mushroom House (right)

Now, I know that craft blogs are full of mushroom pincushions, but when I decided I had to have a mushroom pincushion of my very own, I couldn’t find a pattern or tutorial for the shapes I had in mind. Not that the ones I found weren’t lovely, just that I had a very specific image in my head of how I wanted my pincushions to look.

Failing to find a pattern on the internet, I again had to resort to making my own pattern, this time using a compass, a protractor, a ruler, and my rusty knowledge of geometry. Now, either my knowledge of geometry was much better than I thought, or I was incredibly lucky, because the pattern worked.

If you want to make your own, here’s how.

First, get a compass, protractor and ruler…. Only kidding.

You’ll need the following materials:

Red & white felt: a 9″ (23 cm) square of each will be big enough to make Toadstool Cottage and Mushroom Cottage unless you enlarge the pattern. Or, you can use any other colours you like.

Embroidery floss or wool:

• White, for attaching the spots (you could use normal sewing thread for this instead)
• Green, for grass and stems
• Brown, for the door and windows
• Selection of colours for the flowers. I used red, pink, blue and yellow

Scraps of coloured felt (or other fabric) for doors and windows

Sewing thread, embroidery needle, etc

Stuffing: I used toy stuffing for mine as I wanted them to be washable, but you could also use pellets or rice, or even wood shavings as stuffing.

Directions

Download the pattern file

Click here for the pattern. That link will take you to a PDF of the pattern pieces. If you print the document at 100% of its size your Toadstool Cottage will be approximately 5″ or 13 cm high, and Mushroom House will be approximately 4″ or 10 cm high. (Unless I really messed up the production of the file, in which case let me know…)

You can enlarge or reduce the pattern to make different sizes.

Please note: this free pattern download is not for resale. All rights reserved. No part of the pattern may be reproduced in any form. The written instructions, photographs, design, and pattern are intended for personal, non-commercial use only i.e. you are not permitted to sell any items made using this pattern.

Cut out the following pieces

From red felt

• Either 4 x cap top 1 for Toadstool Cottage or 4 x cap top 2 for Mushroom Cottage

From white felt

• Either 1 x cap bottom 1 for Toadstool cottage or 1 x cap bottom 2 for Mushroom Cottage
• 1 x stalk
• 1 x base
• 8 or 9 spots (I used 9 spots for Toadstool Cottage and 8 spots for Mushroom House)

From felt colour for door

• 1 x door

From felt colour for windows

• 4 x curtains

Make the cap

Step 1: take two red cap top pieces and pin together. For Toadstool Cottage, sew down one of the long sides, using a ¼” seam. For Mushroom House, sew down one of the sides without the notch, as shown below, using a ¼” seam. Repeat for the other two red cap pieces.

Step 2: open both the sewn pieces out flat, and pin to each other, matching the corners and seams. Sew together, using a ¼” seam.

Step 3: turn right side out, and sew the white spots to the cap using running stitch. If you prefer, you can attach the spots using fabric glue. I used nine spots for Toadstool Cottage, and eight spots for Mushroom House.

TIP: it is easier to sew the spots to the cap before the cap is stuffed, but if you prefer, you can sew them on later.

Step 4: turn the cap inside out again, and baste the cap bottom to the edge. Sew using as small a seam allowance as possible, a maximum of a ¼” seam (I used an 1/8″ seam, but both work).

Turn the cap right side out again, taking care not to stretch the cap bottom.

Make the base

Step 1: place the door in position on the stalk piece and baste into place. Note: the base of the door should sit about ¼” above the bottom of the stalk, as shown below. Sew the door in position using chain or back-stitch, and make a French knot for the door handle. Then baste the curtains in position, and embroider the window frames, again using chain stitch or back-stitch.

Step 2: embroider the stalk with any details you like, leaving a margin of ¼” round the edge of the stalk piece. As you can see, I embroidered lots of flowers, because that’s what I wish the front of my house looked like. I used a combination of detached chain stitches, back stitch, and French knots for my embroidery.

Step 3: once you have finished decorating the stalk, fold it in half with the embroidery on the inside, and the two short sides matching up, and sew using a ¼” seam, then turn the right way out.

Join the cap and base together

Step 1: lightly stuff the cap. Don’t stuff it too much, as you need to be able to insert the stalk into the opening.

Step 2: insert the stalk into the opening, and baste into place.

Then sew firmly using ladder stitch.

Step 3: once the stalk is attached, finish stuffing the cap firmly. Then stuff the stalk, but loosely. You shouldn’t have any stuffing poking out of the bottom when you’ve finished, or the pin cushion won’t stand up (check that it stands up before you attach the base, and adjust the stuffing if needed).

TIP: if you’re using pellets or rice or something similar for stuffing, it maybe useful to cut a circle of card or plastic to line the base with.

Step 4: attach the base using running stitch.

And ta daaaaa! You’re done.

If you make any of these, please post a pic to The Little House by the Sea flickr pool or send me a pic, as I’d love to see them.